What's New in the mismatch outdoor unit situation? Glad you asked! The Energy Technical Advisory Committee (TAC), and subsequently the Florida Building Commission (FBC), ruled on a Declaratory (DEC) statement in October determining when changing the outdoor unit only without a change of the air handler, the installing contractor must prove compatibility with an ARI rating, ARL tested combination (or any reputable laboratory), manufacturer's letter or a P.E. certifying that this system will operate correctly.
I am particularly pleased to see this action as I view mismatching as unethical and now illegal. Many contractors say that they install outdoor units only as change outs all the time and they work great! I say "you must know something Trane, Carrier, Lennox, etc. and the folks from the Alabama Power test lab don't! They aren't able to make a 10-SEER AHU operate correctly with a 13-SEER or greater outdoor unit, and to agree with you and seal an affidavit as to capacity, efficiency and the amount of refrigerant to use, etc., you will ìscoop the market."

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Heating and Air Conditioning systems are complex, and as a result, knowing what kind of services you need can be daunting.

Here, you'll find common questions and simple answers to help you choose the services you need.

What does a central air conditioning unit consist of?
A central air-conditioning unit has two parts: an indoor coil unit and an outdoor condensing unit. The compressor which is located in the outdoor condensing unit is the cornerstone to your air conditioning system.These two parts are designed to work together as a coordinated team to provide maximum performance, efficiency and comfort. In central air conditioning systems with a 13 SEER or higher rating, these two units need to be perfectly matched for the system to function properly.

Can I replace just the outdoor condensing unit or just the inside coil unit?
"A new air conditioning or heat pump system can be expensive and homeowners are sometimes tempted to save money by just replacing the outdoor unit, but that is going to waste their money down the road," said William Sutton, president of the Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute (ARI)."Homeowners won't achieve peak efficiency and comfort levels from their cooling system unless it is properly matched and installed. Improperly installed systems may function, but not at peak performance, and could prematurely fail." Furthermore, all manufacturers require that their equipment be installed as a "matched" system. In fact, many manufacturers state in their literature that they will void the warranty if an old indoor unit is used. A new 13 SEER air conditioner used with a 15 year old indoor unit will have an actual operating SEER of approximately 8 or 9. So, you will loose efficiency, increase maintenance problems, and possibly shorten the life of the system by mismatching a system.


What does "SEER mean to me?
The seasonal energy efficiency ratio is the amount of cooling that a heat pump (or air conditioner) delivers per every dollar spent on electricity. In other words, a higher SEER unit uses less electricity. On January 23, a new government mandate took effect that raised the minimum efficiency standard for all newly manufactured central air-conditioners and heat pumps from 10 SEER to 13 SEER. This 30 percent increase in efficiency could cut a homeowner's energy use up to 55 percent when compared with most central air-conditioning systems that are more than 10 years old.

The importance of "SEER"?
The least efficient unit available today is a 13 SEER system. This unit is probably 40%-50% more efficient than a 15 year old air conditioner. Usually the higher SEER (more expensive) systems are quieter and have a better warranty.

What is "HSPF"?
The heating seasonal performance factor is similar to SEER, but it measures the efficiency of the heating portion of your heat pump. The minimum HSPF allowed for a residential heat pump is 6.8. The most efficient HSPF that I have found in 2001 is 9.3. A small difference in the HSPF number can represent both a savings on the amount of electricity and the temperature of the air delivered by the heat pump in the heating cycle.

Do all 13 SEER air conditioners perform the same?
When comparing different brands of air conditioners, a 13 SEER 3 ton brand "A" will offer the same COOLING operating costs as a 13 SEER 3 ton brand "B". However, one brand may do a better job of removing moisture from the air. The better the moisture removal, the more comfortable you will be-even at a warmer temperature. An air conditioner that is over-sized (too large) will cool a home very quickly but, due to the shorter "run" time, it will not remove as much moisture. A slightly undersized air conditioner that must run more often will actually provide a more comfortable home, better humidity control, and at a lower operating cost.

What is a "ton" of air conditioning?
One ton of air conditioning is 12,000 BTU. A BTU is short for British thermal unit and is the amount of heat that will raise or lower one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. It is important to note that actual capacity is not constant and will change based on outdoor or indoor temperature. The published rating of a unit is based upon capacity when the outdoor temperature is 95 degrees F. and the inside temperature is 80 degrees F.

Also, some manufacturers may call their unit a 3 ton system even though it only delivers 34,000 BTU. Another manufacturer may be offering 37,000 BTU's with their 3 ton unit.

How often should filters be cleaned or replaced?
Filters should be replaced/cleaned once per month. Many "high efficiency" air filters have a longer useful life. Most of the electronic & electrostatic filters must be cleaned a minimum of once per month. Allowing a filter to become clogged with dirt will raise the operating costs of the system and can actually cause damage to the compressor.

Should a thermostat be set to "auto" or "on"?
When the thermostat is set to "auto", the fan operates only when the temperature requires it (whenever the cooling unit or heating unit is running). When set to "on", the fan operates all the time. You may want the fan to run all the time to do its best possible job of filtering the air. If clean air is important or if you are an allergy sufferer, then you should investigate a furnace/heat pump that includes a "variable speed" fan. The variable speed fan will automatically switch to a lower speed when possible and can lower the cost of the fan as much as 85%. This can be a large savings on the power bill for customers who want to run the fan continuously.

What is my "best buy" in a air conditioner?
This question will have a different answer based upon the needs of the purchaser. In the long run, the more efficient air conditioner will provide a higher Return-On-Investment. For the purchaser who will finance the system, the high efficient unit is even a better buy. For instance, a higher SEER unit might cost $500.00 extra which would add approximately $10.00 to the monthly payment. However, this high efficiency unit may reduce the power bill between $7.00 and $10.00 per month on the average. This would immediately make the better, higher efficiency unit have the same or lower net cost.

Is a heat pump less efficient in the summer than a regular air conditioner?
A 13 SEER heat pump and a 13 SEER air conditioner would cost the very same to operate during the cooling season. There is no difference during the cooling months.

I've heard a lot about new refrigerants. What are the facts?
Residential heat pumps and air conditioners contain a refrigerant called R-22 which is classified as an HCFC. This is an environmentally safe and efficient refrigerant that will be available as long as your new system will last. There are some rulings being made by the US Environmental Protection Agency which require changes be made to refrigerants but not until the year 2020. Manufacturers will be producing units using R-22 until the year 2010 and the refrigerant itself will be available until 2030.
Manufacturers are testing many new refrigerants (and have been doing so for over 10 years). There are currently two frontrunners as possible replacements for R-22. One is called R-134 and the other is R-410A. One manufacturer who markets equipment under three different names has chosen to offer R-410A refrigerant in some units and they have given this refrigerant a "name"-Puron. Several manufacturers offer "Puron" or R-410A systems at the present time.

What is the difference in a Manufacturer's Limited Warranty and an Extended parts and labor Warranty?
A limited warranty covers specific parts (i.e. compressor, coil, electronics, etc.); therefore, it is limited by the language in the warranty. Extended warranties are generally purchased in addition to the equipment. Extended warranties cover all parts and may also include the labor for the service call. An extended warranty protects you for unexpected and unbudgeted service calls for the duration of the warranty. Be aware that no warranty includes maintenance, shipping costs, and related parts (parts not provided by the manufacturer). Most labor warranties do not include labor for diagnostics. Most of the better manufacturer's now require proof that routine maintenance has been performed on the equipment. If a contractor offers a labor or long parts warranty, you should remember that it is only good as long as the dealer is in business.

What size system do I need for my home?
There are many things which will determine the size (capacity) system your home requires. Some of these are: square feet to be cooled, local climate, humidity, number of windows, size of windows, type of windows, insulation factors, direction your home faces, heat producing appliances, and even the number of people who will be in the home. There are several different types of analysis that will help determine the proper unit.

How do I find a dealer who will do a good job?
Ask people you know who have had an air conditioning system installed. Check with the Better Business Bureau. Use a company that has an established business and had technicians "on call". Remember that, even a new system, will break down sometime. It will probably be on a holiday or weekend. The "moonlighter" or "one man shop" probably will be out of town or even out of business.

How does an air conditioner work?
An air conditioner transfers heat from the inside of a home to the outside. Refrigerant in the system absorbs the excess heat and is pumped through a closed system of "refrigerant piping" to the outside unit. A fan blows outside air over the hot coil, transferring heat from the refrigerant to the outdoor air. Because the heat is removed from the indoor air, the indoor area is cooled.

My air conditioner is no longer cooling properly. What is the most likely problem?
It could be as simple as replacing a fuse, resetting a circuit breaker or checking to see if the thermostat is set properly. It could be from lack of maintenance such as a very dirty filter. If an electrical problem isn't the cause, the refrigerant may be low if the system still runs but does not cool properly. This can be corrected by having an EPA-certified technician add necessary refrigerant. Most likely, if the problem involves any major part, such as the compressor, you would hear strange noises similar to those of any mechanical equipment not running correctly, or the unit might not run at all.

Can homeowners repair their own air conditioner?
In most cases, definitely not. Cooling systems today are more complicated to service and usually require expert attention in order to comply with federal regulations, such as the Clean Air Act which prohibits releasing refrigerants into the atmosphere. An EPA-certified air conditioning contractor or service technician should be called at the first sign of trouble

When do I know it's time to replace my system?
When the system starts giving you more problems than seem cost-effective to fix, particularly when major components such as the compressor, the cornerstone to the air conditioning system, starts making unusual noises or otherwise indicating need for service. When faced with major repairs, consider that a new system will eliminate costly repairs and will save money on your monthly power bill because of the increased efficiency.

Should I keep running my old system until it wears out or replace it sooner?
Because newer equipment usually is more energy efficient than older central air conditioning or heat pump systems, you may actually save money by replacing your old system before it wears out. In some cases, the money you save in reduced utility costs might pay back your purchase price of a new system years earlier than you might think.

What is the best type of system to meet all indoor comfort needs?
The best system depends on many variables, including family size, house location, design, and utility costs. The optimum indoor comfort system might include high efficiency air conditioning, high efficiency heating, high efficiency air cleaning, air purification, and humidification.

How about a little data on SEER ratings. My unit is 15 years old and I have no idea what the actual efficiency is?
There are three main ways to determine the SEER of equipment: (1) find the model numbers of your present equipment and check them with a local contractor (such as Wall-Turner Company). (2) estimate the SEER based on the average SEER units produced approximately when your system was installed. (3) check the energy efficiency label on your outdoor unit if it was produced after 1989.
In the first method, contractors can then consult manufacturer data or the ARI directory which lists all models of equipment by manufacturers that certify their equipment.

In the second method, for air conditioners and heat pumps produced in 1981, the first year SEER criteria was used, the average ratings were 7.78 (A/C) and 7.51 (H/P) respectively. By 1987, SEERs reached 8.97 and 8.93 respectively.

By 1994, ratings increased to 10.61 for air conditioners and 10.94 for heat pumps.

Remember that The National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987 set a federal standard of 10.0 SEER minimum for air conditioners and heat pumps made after January 1992. The fact that, two year later, the average was 10.61 shows that the best air conditioners available were only slightly better than 11 SEER in 1994.

In the third method, residential central air conditioners and heat pumps covered under Department of Energy test procedures and manufactured on and after June 7, 1988, are required to have labels containing energy efficiency information.

Should I install a heat pump instead of a regular air conditioner if I have a gas or oil heating system?
A heat pump can be a worthwhile consideration no matter what heating system is used in a home. In many areas, a heat pump with gas or oil supplementary heat is the most economical system.
The above paragraph is the "text" answer nationally. Our answer is based upon local weather conditions, prices for local fuels, and past feedback from customers. The above answer is technically correct for the most economical system. However, the gas furnace/heat pump combination system will normally cost about $600-$800 more than gas furnace/air conditioning. I recommend that you spend the extra money for a deluxe gas/air conditioning system such as a "two-stage" gas furnace or a "variable speed" gas furnace.

For the oil furnace/heat pump combination system you will normally spend about $600-$800 more than for a oil furnace/air conditioner. This is well spent money if the home is fairly well insulated. If not well insulated, I would recommend that the extra money be spent on insulation.

A very few energy conscious customers have used these "dual fuel" heating systems for many years. Most of our customers, within a few years after purchasing the "dual fuel" systems, have turned off the "dual" capability and now heat with their gas or oil furnace. The reason given by these customers is usually that the difference in air temperature (between the heat pump heated air and the gas furnace heated air) is great enough that they are not comfortable during times when the system switches from one fuel to the other.

What about having my ducts cleaned?
Duct outlets and registers should be cleaned as part of your regular home cleaning routine. It's the filter in the system, and to a lesser degree the grilles and registers at the duct outlets, that collect most of the dust, and therefore need changing or cleaning.
Supply (hot air ducts in winter/cold air ducts in summer) ducts normally accumulate only small amounts of dust and dirt because the air is filtered at the Air Handler or Furnace (the blower unit). Return (ducts from the return air grilles back to the blower unit) ducts can get very dirty. The return air ducts are the place where dust, dirt, mold, etc. can accumulate. You can usually check ducts by removing a few registers and inspecting the ducts from the inside with a flashlight.

Should my home be humidified?
That depends largely on your personal needs. Humidification is definitely helpful in many homes during a 6-8 week period during the coldest winter weather. In the coldest weather insufficient moisture in the air often is responsible for such assorted problems as stuffy noses, sore throats, more dust than usual, cracks and dried-out joints in wood furniture, and static electricity. A good humidifier can cost $350-$600.00. It will be used only during the winter months and you will need to "clean and start" the humidifier in the fall. When spring arrives, you must "drain, clean, and shut-down" the humidifier or it could become a breeding ground for mold during the summer.